This isn’t really my beat, but Isaac Rangaswami’s, or Jonathan Nunn’s, you should go read what they have to say after finishing this.
Love the Janus-faced “either an institution or a parody of one”— such a useful way to think about restaurants that are now somehow Performing Themselves by staying the same as the world / “scene” changes
Love the Janus-faced “either an institution or a parody of one”— such a useful way to think about restaurants that are now somehow Performing Themselves by staying the same as the world / “scene” changes