Why this? Why now?

There isn’t a lot of good, thoughtful food writing out there, though there is more food writing on the internet than ever before. It’s almost entirely breathless, uncritical, un-researched click bait, and even newspapers that were formerly bastions of serious writing about food have largely abdicated that responsibility. This is my attempt to change that.

Mostly, I write about food in the context of food systems - the networks of relationships embedded in the thing on your plate (and indeed, the plate itself). Occasionally, I just write about food, because that is in the end the joyous part of all this. It will probably be food you have never heard of.

I have run critically acclaimed bars and restaurants for almost a decade, as a managing partner and an active chef. I am also a sociologist by training, and a democratic socialist by inclination. This, more or less, is why this newsletter isn’t like anything else out there.