Archive - let them eat cake

no. 103: pressed

When life is pressing you like a panini, make more sandwiches.

Jun 22 •

May 2025

no. 102: the foundations of empire

or, a review of recent sandwiches

May 27 •

no. 101: maybe they just are

Soon kueh are among my earliest taste memories.

May 4 •

April 2025

the food of ravaged places

I’ve been in final edits for the book, hence the long silence.

Apr 9 •

February 2025

no. 100: an existential act

Happy new year.

Feb 15 •

January 2025

no. 99: postcards

I drove one last carload of our move down through Sunday night’s blizzard, a mishmash of dog beds and tamis (yes, I have more than one, why do you ask…

Jan 25 •

December 2024

no. 98: the internet made flesh

The cafe that just opened in my neighborhood seems less a commercial undertaking than a public art project.

Dec 31, 2024 •

no. 97: perfected, like humanity

My office sits between two ramen joints, one where the cooks are Chinese and one where the cooks are Thai (the kitchen porters at both are Latin…

Dec 21, 2024 •

November 2024

no. 96: they find you

1. Really this spoon is D’s, though it passed through my hands around 2007, when my mum excavated it from one of the innumerable, immaculate drawers of…

Nov 27, 2024 •

Nov 1, 2024 •

October 2024

Oct 15, 2024 •

no. 95: lamb tripe with your fingers

Over the last month I found myself visiting dojos in the suburbs of Northern Virginia, where the silver line snakes west from DC, a tentacle pulling…

Oct 12, 2024 •

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